There are some trips that feel relaxing from the first minute. Costa Rica was not exactly that kind of trip.
Costa Rica, for us, was more like this: someone yelling, “Is that a monkey?” from the back seat. Someone else realizing their shoes were still wet from yesterday. The kids, once again, deciding that what this 40C+ day really needs is another soak in a geothermal hot spring. A parent pretending to understand the road signs. A child eating nacho chips for every meal. And all of us, somehow, completely happy.
We wanted a family trip that felt adventurous without being exhausting, tropical without being trapped at a resort, and memorable without requiring us to sprint through seven destinations in 10 days. After reading far too many Costa Rica family itineraries, one thing became obvious: everyone seems to agree that the magic combination is rainforest, volcano, wildlife, hot springs, and beach. So that became our loose plan.
Arenal first. Sámara second. Everything else could fit around that.
Starting in Arenal: The Costa Rica we had in our heads
The Arenal region felt like the Costa Rica from the travel articles had come to life.
We stayed at Arenal Manoa & Hot Springs, close enough to the action but still surrounded by that deep, damp, jungle feeling.
The property also had its own hot springs, which became a daily obsession. Just when we thought we had discovered them all, we would round another path, push past another wall of tropical plants, and find a whole new cluster of steaming pools waiting for us. Naturally, the kids wanted to soak in every single one. Repeatedly. In 40C weather. Because apparently, the only thing better than being extremely hot is being extremely hot in geothermally-heated water.
Arenal is perfect for families because it gives you the illusion that you are rugged explorers while still allowing you to be back at your gorgeous hotel pool by mid-afternoon. That is my preferred level of adventure. I want nature. I want mud. I want monkeys. I want rainforest. I want ziplining and canopy bridges. I also want a shower and snacks before anyone melts down.
One of our favourite days: rainforest trails, hanging bridges, wildlife spotting, ziplining and hot springs. The hanging bridges were a hit because they were thrilling without being terrifying. You get the big views, the sway, and then the quiet hush of the forest around you.
We looked for sloths with the intensity of detectives. We stared into trees for long stretches of time, convinced every clump of leaves might have a face. My kids claimed to see sloths. I actually saw none.
Then came the hot springs.
If Arenal is the adventure capital of a family trip to Costa Rica, the hot springs are the reward for everyone who put on bug spray without complaining. Warm pools, tropical plants, steam rising, kids suddenly capable of playing peacefully for hours—it felt like the whole family had collectively exhaled.
One of the best experiences of the whole trip was playing in the Tabacón River, a flowing thermal river naturally warmed by the Arenal Volcano. Sitting in a river that felt like bathwater was completely surreal—like nature had accidentally built the world’s best hot tub.
La Fortuna Waterfall and the great stair negotiation
Of course, no family trip is complete without at least one activity where you think, “This will be beautiful,” followed quickly by, “How many stairs did they say?”
La Fortuna Waterfall is genuinely stunning. The water drops dramatically into a turquoise pool surrounded by thick green forest, and the whole place feels almost suspiciously photogenic. The walk down is manageable. The walk back up is where family character is revealed.
There were tears. There were water breaks. There were exhausted parents carrying even more exhausted children.
Still, it was worth it. It was hot, damp, beautiful, slightly ridiculous, and totally unforgettable.
That became a theme for Costa Rica. The best moments usually required a bit of effort. A longer-than-expected walk. A shuttle ride. A safety tutorial. But the payoff was always waiting.
Why Arenal worked so well for our family
Arenal gave us variety without forcing us to move constantly. One day could be adventurous. The next could be slow. You can zipline, hike, soak, swim, eat, wander around La Fortuna, look for wildlife, or do absolutely nothing while pretending you are “absorbing the landscape.”
It also worked because the kids were never bored. At one point, my daughter leaned back in the sun, closed her eyes, and announced, “I love vacation.” It was -25C back home, so honestly, no one was in a position to argue.
For parents, Arenal has that sweet spot: enough structure to make planning easy, enough wildness to feel exciting, and enough comfort to keep everyone from collapsing into mutiny.
On to Sámara: Where the trip slowed down
After Arenal, Sámara felt like the deep breath.
The drive brought us out of the lush volcano region and toward the drier, sunnier vibes of Guanacaste. By the time we reached Sámara, our family had shifted into beach mode (and by beach mode I mean sand followed us everywhere we went).
Sámara is exactly what we wanted from the beach portion of the trip. It is relaxed, friendly, low-key, and easy to enjoy with kids. It does not feel like a giant resort zone. It feels like a real beach town where families can wander for food, swim, take surf lessons (highly recommended), and end the day with salty hair and no real plan.
The beach itself was the star. Calm enough to feel family-friendly, lively enough to keep things interesting, and wide enough that everyone could spread out without feeling packed in. The kids played in the water, dug elaborate sand structures, body surfed, read books in the shade of palm trees and watched friendly dogs roam in search of food scraps and affection.
Beach days, small adventures, and the joy of doing less
Sámara gave us permission to stop being ambitious.
We still had little adventures. We watched the waves. We explored town. We ate casually and happily. We took surf lessons. We went on a dolphin- and whale-watching trip (which did not dissapoint). We went horseback riding on the beach.
What I loved most was how easy everything felt. We could just wake up, walk to the beach, swim, snack, repeat.
And somehow, those slower days became as memorable as the big adventure days. Maybe more.
What I’d tell another family planning Costa Rica
I would absolutely build a family trip around Arenal and Sámara again.
Start with Arenal if you want the “wow” factor right away: volcano, rainforest, hot springs, wildlife, hanging bridges, waterfalls, all of it. Then finish in Sámara, where the pace drops and the whole family gets to recover in the best possible way.
I would also resist the urge to cram too much in. Costa Rica looks small on a map. Two main regions were enough for us. More than enough, actually. Arenal gave us adventure. Sámara gave us rest. Together, they gave us the kind of trip that felt full without feeling frantic.
By the end, we had wet shoes, sandy bags, bug bites, too many burry, far away photos of animals in trees, and a shared family understanding that Costa Rica is special.
My kids took hundreds of stunning photos like this.